To be honest, I searched for an alternative to doing sliding dovetails for the shelves, but I could come up with nothing that would hold the sides of the case square and not have to rely on a glue joint like a standard dado. So, I cut the sliding dovetails in the case, as well as a 1/4" deep dado that will accept the rabbet off of the ship-lapped back panel.
I used a dado blade set to 3/8" wide to remove most of the waste prior to cutting the dovetail with a 1/2" dovetail router bit on the router table.
I got a lot of work done today on the cherry hand tool cabinet. I cut all of the tails in the top and bottom carcass boards. I ended up not being able to use the two skewed chisels due to the pin holes being too narrow; however, it didn't matter because the Japanese chisel got right into the corners easily. Tomorrow I will cut the pins in the left and right side carcass boards
After ripping all of the panels to a rough width, I began to glue-up the two side, and the upper and lower panel.
I cleaned up the panels a bit with a #6 fore plane. I will save the final smoothing until after the dovetails are cut.
I have jointed and planed most of the cherry that I will need for the hand tool cabinet. Since some of the cabinet will be designed as I go, I am sure I will have to plane some more rough lumber.
It was a little bit difficult to find enough longer boards that would finish out at 3/4" thick and 48" long. These four boards will have to do. Trying to get some kind of grain matching going...
There are those times when you realized that you did not have everything planned out as you thought while the band saw was tensioned and the dust collector was still attached... For those moments, a Japanese ryoba saw will have the job done faster than re-tensioning and moving the dust collector.